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I finished them. I modified the Sweetheart Sock pattern to use the parts I liked best and made some great arm warmers in Kureyon Sock yarn. They are great and I love them. I couldn't get a good picture, but I took a lot. They go up most of the way to my elbow.
This is the book I looked at this weekend.
Anyway this book is a flat patterning book. It includes many, many blocks, various bodice blocks, several different pants blocks and block for knits, just to name a few. The book appears to be very straightforward, explaining things step by step and even including construction techniques and other information not generally included in patterning books. It looks like it will be a good reference for me and would be a good guide for a person who is learning on their own without the help of a teacher/mentor. As a book to teach and practice with I think I prefer Apparel Making for Fashion Design even with its quirks, because of its layout for a classroom setting. You can see many different designs all based on one technique on one page, you can see how they are related and have students do the different alterations and share.
At times I found the illustrations to not be as clear as I would have liked, but there are a lot of illustrations and I guess too many is better than not enough. I also don't like that the seam allowance is marked on the illustrations, I think it gets in the way. While there are many slopers/blocks to build the measurements you use to build them and the instructions for drafting the block are intertwined. Which is good, if you need step by step instructions the first time you create a sloper, but if you are going to do many I would prefer to have a page where you calculate all your measurements then instructions that say "take such-and-such measurement", so I look on my measurement sheet to find "such-and-such" and plug it in instead of following directions and calculating measurements at the same time. I have decided to do a test on how well various basic slopers come out. I haven't started yet, but I went to measure my dress form and without going through the steps I didn't know what measurements I needed! Which is terribly unhelpful because I don't even know what measurements I need before I start drafting the block!
Besides having a section on knits from t-shirts to leotards and underwear another interesting part of this book is that it has instructions for a custom dress form that is better (more useful) than just wrapping yourself in duct tape (which you can't pin), even creating a base for it to stand on.
The simple clear instructions, drafts, sections on knits and pants, and helpful construction and other techniques make this book worth it for me. I may recommend it to students, but at $85-$95 I don't think I would require it. However, this book could be excellent for someone starting out sewing and learning to pattern, who doesn't have a teacher/mentor. It is a lot of money, but you wouldn't be paying for a class! And the custom dress form is just cool. The book is also spiral bound so it lays flat when you use it.
First off, all of my knitting has been dubbed a sweater or a sock. In fact, this means that even socks can be called foot sweaters, and I guess sweaters can be called a body(?) sock.
I started off making the Sweetheart sock pattern from the Holiday 2007 Interweave Knits. I really liked the "sweetheart" cable. I used my noro kuryon sock. After several inches I realized that I thought the back cabling was just too much, I wanted to focus on the cabling I loved and not bother with the other stuff. I also realized that I wanted to make them into arm warmers. I love the look of this yarn, yes it is not soft, but it isn't awful, so I wanted to put them on my arms so I could see them all the time! That and I realized that my feet cannot handle some socks, yes it is sad I love socks and I don't have beautiful ankles.
If you can see it this is what the back cabling looked like on the original pattern, in my modified design I altered the cables and did some different kinds of ribbing. I also started with 70 sts instead of 84. They are tight I probably could have added some sts back. Maybe 74? More when I finish.
I am currently in search of patterning books. Since I have been looking at them I thought I would share my impressions. I have two books that were required for a class and those have been sufficient for general purposes, now historical patterns are a completely different matter. Since I work in theater I will refer to the person you are making clothing for as "the actor".
First of all there are two ways to create patterns, draping and drafting/flat patterning. Draping uses a dress form that is the same shape as the person you are making clothing for. You use muslin to "drape" the pattern onto the dress form. Then you take your muslin pieces and trace them onto paper, giving you a pattern. Drafting or flat patterning you use measurements to create a sloper or body block of the actor. A sloper is a basically a fitted bodice. Once you have your sloper you alter it to make the design and style changes you need. There are somethings that are more easily done by draping and some more easily done by drafting. Generally you draft sleeves, collars, pants and items for men, you drape bodices for women. I draft skirts, but depending on what you are doing and how you feel about each method you could drape them.
My search for books comes from the fact that I am looking for a good sloper/body block draft to use, I haven't really needed one for women because we had a collection of dress forms, but that has changed. I am also kind of looking at books for if no WHEN I am asked to teach a class I want to know what books to require. Patterning books are expensive! And I don't have any problem requiring expensive books for class, IF they are worth the price. I wouldn't want book costs to be prohibitive, but they really are necessary and would pay for themselves if the student wanted to continue on with patterning, for costume construction, or personal projects.
Here are the two books that were used in my class, I would recommend both, but the thing to remember is that I was taking a class with a teacher, who taught. We used the book to follow the steps for drafting, draping, pattern alterations, whatever, we didn't use it to learn from. So I haven't really read these books, I just used the information in them.
This is a draping book, using muslin to create a pattern on a dress form. This is not what I am looking for now, because as I said without dress forms, draping isn't really useful. However, this is the book I used to learn, and it works.
This is the flat patterning book we used. I like it, but again that could be because it is the one I was taught with. Of course it has some quirks, the pattern marks are different, some of the measurements are in 8ths of an inch, but I like the layout. The skirt sloper I use is from this book, of course there probably aren't very many differences is skirt slopers. Again, we didn't read the book, just used the information to make different designs, move darts and the like.
Maybe five months ago Netflix suggested I might enjoy An Ideal Husband. Why not, it was an Oscar Wilde play, so I watched it and got what I expected. A comedy of manners, people behind doors or screens eavesdrop on conversations and misinterpret what they hear secrets, bets, blackmail, and everything turns out all right in the end.
More recently, in the past month I was told we were looking to do Dangerous Liaisons next year. An overwhelming prospect, if I am the only draper. I knew little about the play except that it is an overwhelming costume piece, "all about the clothes" in a time moments before the French Revolution where people got their heads chopped off for wearing such ostentatious, frivolous clothes. But anyway I thought I needed to learn more about the play in case anyone asked for my opinion I could tell them what I thought about how much work would actually go into costuming this show. Let's not forget that in this show people get dressed on stage which means that you have to make beautiful costumes that look good on the inside too, and beautiful undergarments...but I digress on the costume needs of the show.
Anyway I couldn't find a play script, or the novel so I ordered the movie from Netflix. It was so good! I loved it, chilling and creepy, twists and secrets, revenge, games, bets, people plotting and twisting and destroying their own lives, a tragedy, it doesn't turn out all right in the end. But I really liked it, it made me more interested in finding the book, but I was unsure why I liked it so much.
I had totally forgot about ever seeing An Ideal Husband when it came on TV last week. After some "this is so familiar, I think I have seen this...Yes I have" I came to an odd realization the comedy of manners and the Dangerous Liaisons are like opposite sides of the same coin. In theater you talk about how plays end it marriage or death. If there is a marriage it is a comedy, and death is a tragedy. Now that is a really simple explanation and works well for Shakespeare. I understand that we make things more complicated today. But if you have marriage or death as your two outcomes then isn't it possible to have the same plot points except one is a comedy and one is a tragedy? I think so, I think this is part of the reason why I liked Dangerous Liaisons.
Apparently I need something to keep my hands busy, even in the past month when I worked every single day I worked 28 out of 29 days in February I can't stop knitting. It had been a long time since I knit socks, but after starting on some arm warmers..and looking at sock patterns for inspiration I found fun sock patterns and fun sock yarn.
Here is the MagKnits Rainbow Sock pattern in OnLine Supersocke 100 Holiday color 1001. This was my first toe up sock and short row heel. I discovered that I don't really have a preference for toe up or leg down socks. I cast on using the magic cast on. And bound off using the cast off described here. The hole "You can try it on as you go!" Didn't impress me because I can try it on as I go doing leg down.
I finished up a pair of the Pomatomus Sock in Dream in Color Smooshy "Deep Sea Flower". I love this pattern I have a secret plan of making something else with this pattern design. It will take a long time, but apparently I need to knit! And I am trying to stay away from sewing because I do that every stupid day. Even though I really really really need to make myself some pants! That will be a spring or summer break project.
And I also finished my second pair of Jaywalkers, my first pair was with Knit Picks Felici and those were great! I didn't have the problem of getting the socks on that I had heard about, this pair in Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock came out a little tighter, but not too bad and they feel really great. The next time I want to buy two different colorways again for that intentional miss-matched look. The colors were really vibrant and after I bought it I thought "Why did I do that?" Until I looked at one of my favorite shirts (it is dying and is now a sleep shirt, but I love it to death)
A friend had some little crochet fingerless
gloves, or "hobo gloves" as she called them. I told her I had been
making arm warmers for friends and she asked if I would make her some.
I didn't tell her the ones I have made so far have been fairly long up
the arm because the shorter they are the quicker I could make them.
Then more people asked for them so I made a lot.
I chose a rib pattern because it is stretchy to fit multiple size hands without changing the pattern. I made them to end close to the knuckles and not high up on the fingers because everyone wanted to wear them while working and we use our fingers a lot. The garter rib gives a squishy/cozy feeling to the mitt while hugging the hand. Use your favorite luxurious sock yarn for really soft and cozy mitt.
Mitts pictured are in Lorna's Laces Shepherd Sock "Mother Lode" and Brown Sheep Wildfoote "Mums".
MATERIALS
Fingering weight/Sock yarn
I don't guarantee you can get two pairs of gloves, out of one skein of 215yd sock yarn, but it was close, maybe try making the mitts with 56sts instead of 60.
US 2 / 2.75mm set of 4 double pointed needles
2 stitch markers
Stitch holder or safety pins
GAUGE
Approx. 20sts = 2in in Garter Rib pattern unstretched.
SIZE
The rib makes them fit a variety of hand sizes, to make longer add more rows before and after thumb gusset, to change circumference add/subtract in multiples of four.
GARTER RIB PATTERN
Round 1 K all sts
Round 2 [K2 P2] to end of rnd
MITTS
Cast on 60sts on 3 needles, 20sts on each needle. Join being careful not to twist.
Work 6 rounds in K1, P1 rib. Switch to Garter Rib pattern. Work in pattern until piece measures 1.75 inches from beginning.
THUMB GUSSET
Thumb gusset is worked in pattern, because of the increases the pattern is built as a mirror image from the center.
On knit round of garter rib pattern Knit to last 4sts PM, M1, K2, M1, PM, K2.
We are starting with 2 knit stitches as the base of the thumb gusset, so on the next K2, P2 round you are taking the the stitches just inside the markers and purling them, this is how you build the K2 P2 pattern in the thumb guesset. In the thumb gusset on the K2 P2 rounds work established sts in pattern work the sts right on the inside of the markers in K or P whichever continues the K2 P2 pattern. Purl last two stitch after marker.
On the K rounds you SM M1 K to marker M1 SM, Knit last two sts
If my explanation is too confusing just don't do the thumb gusset in pattern, knit all sts for every row inside the markers, increasing every other row.
Regular Thumb Gusset
Work until you have 22sts inside markers. Then work 4 rounds in pattern without thumb gusset increases. (Pattern inside the markers is P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2)
Larger Thumb Guesset
Work until you have 28sts inside markers. Then work 2 rounds in pattern without thumb gusset increases. (Pattern inside markers is P1, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P2, K2, P1)
ABOVE THE THUMB
On the Knit round, knit to marker, remove marker, place thumb sts on a stitch holder, CO 2sts, knit last two sts.
Continue in Garter rib until the piece measures 1" from "above thumb" COsts.
Knit one round
Knit 6 rounds in K1 P1 rib.
Bind off
WORKING THE THUMB
Divide and knit the 22(28) thumb sts on two needles. With third needle pick up and knit 4sts along cast on edge (2 cast on sts plus one at either end) 26(32)sts
Regular Thumb Gusset
Work next round in established rib pattern on the third needle (the one with the 4 picked up stitches) K2 tog, K2 tog. 24sts. (This decrease makes sure the rib pattern 2x2 and uninterrupted
Work 4 more garter rib pattern repeats
Bind off
Large Thumb Gusset
Work next round in established rib pattern
Work 4 more garter rib pattern repeats
Bind off
FINISHING
Weave in all loose ends
Today I will be giving a lesson in fashion history, but first I must talk about the new show Pushing Daisies. I really enjoy this show and I must like it a lot because usually I don't talk about things even if I do like them. Anyway, the reason I like this show is NOT because one of the characters knits. I like it because it is fun and fanciful, silly and smart and incredibly visually interesting, it is just gorgeous, the colors are brilliant especially on our "Glorious HD" TV. How does this relate to fashion history? I have heard people talk about the costumes, specifically the costumes of the main female character Chuck. I found one of Chuck's outfits to be particularly interesting in this week's episode "The Fun in Funeral". And while the people that I heard talking liked the costume, they didn't find in interesting in the way that I did, which made me mad. I am hoping that my historical insight might interest someone else.
Here is the costume I will be discussing:
This is an iconic image of Dior's "New Look". This image went along side information on "The New Look" in two of my three fashion history books. This is an important moment in fashion history and while we look at this style and think "50's" it actually started in 1947. You see, in the 1940's the world was at war, WWII to be exact. There were restrictions on everything and that included how much fabric you could use to make clothes. Men were at war and the women took up the "man's work" at home. Fashion took on a utilitarian, even militaristic feel. This included boxy square cut jackets worn by women. In 1947 after the war, the men came home and everyone wanted to "get back to normal", where women did women's work. This was a return to femininity, the perfect "50's family", men bringing home the bacon and women taking care of the home. The New Look emphasized this return to femininity. In the picture above you can see a slim, defined waist that expands into a wide full skirt. The shoulders are soft, not boxy like early 40's style, these elements are what defined the New Look. It also seems very luxurious, because a skirt that full requires lots of fabric, so it breaks away from the early 40's ideals of conserving fabric.
While Chuck is wearing a dress and not a jacket and skirt there are similarities that make me think her costume specifically references this Dior image, instead of just evoking a more general "New Look style". It must be the hat.
I don't have anything to say about why the costume designer chose to reference the Dior image, I just think it is interesting. Interesting to reference an iconic image and all the history that goes along with it. I hope you learned something and that someone found it interesting too.
Future lessons in fashion history may include
The origin of the word sabotage
How Cinderella's shoes may have originally been squirrel fur
Humm...both those are shoe related, so also something not shoe related?
The toga...not what you think it is.
I have a lot of time on my hands, and my mom said she wanted arm warmers, so I made some more.
I started by casting on 60 sts and worked several rounds in rib stitch. On the next round I increased 5sts (65sts total or 5 pattern repeats). I worked in pattern until the thumb gusset. I suppose I could have made the thumb gusset in between two of the pattern repeats, but I sacrificed one repeat for the gusset. I worked 4 pattern repeats and for one hand K2, PM, K4, PM, K7 for the other hand K7, PM, K4, PM, K2. Another silly thing I did was increase the thumb gusset sts (SM, M1, knit to marker, M1, SM) on every third rnd. This makes a nice thumb gusset in the fingering weight yarn, but the stitch pattern is over 2 rnds. So I couldn't work it like "every time I do row 1 of the pattern I am doing the gusset increase". I worked until I had 22sts between markers. Next round I worked 4 pattern repeats knit to marker, put gusset sts on a holder, cast on 4 sts, knit to end of the round. I continued working, for the first few rounds I didn't work the last 13sts in pattern, but on the 3rd or 4th rnd I did. I continued for the desired hand/palm length then worked several rnds in rib sts (k2tog on one sts to get an even number for the ribbing). Cast Off. For the thumb I put the gusset sts on needles, worked the 22sts then picked up 6sts along the cast on edge. Work 9 more rnds. Cast off. Voila! I love stripes!
I am finally done with my Tempting II from Knitty. I made size S, but I probably could have gone larger, not that it really matters because it is built to be stretchy. I used six balls of Peru Luxury DK and pretty much followed the pattern. I made the body 1" longer and I used a twisted rib stitch because I felt like it. I put the underarm stitches on a holder on the same round as attaching the sleeves to the body, instead of doing it on the next round because that seemed to make sense. However, I didn't figure that out until I had already done it the way the pattern said. So I had to undo some of my work and if you look you can see a line where I didn't twist the stitches correctly when I put the stitches back on the needle. That is the one thing that annoys me. I don't know if other people can tell, but I can. I'll just have to distract them with my charm! So they don't notice the flaw. I attached the band three times before I got it the way I liked. (But I new I was going to try so this time I had a "lifeline" so I wouldn't screw up my stitches). I had read that people attached the band at every row instead of only on the right side row. So I tried that without doing any of the decreasing neck stitches on the body. The band was a little floppy, but looking at the picture now, it was probably just about right, but I didn't like it so I tried again. I had also read that the neck decreases on the body people had done K2tog all the way around instead of K2tog, K1. So I tried that, still attaching the band on every row. This made the neck very tight, almost like a crew neck, so I tried one more time. This time I followed the instructions for the neck decreases on the body K2tog, K1 and still attached the band every row. This time I got what I wanted, while the neckline isn't as open as it is in the pattern. It is still a little open and because it covers the shoulders a bit more I don't have to worry about the bra I wear, which is important to me! For a more open neckline I probably could have gotten away with K2tog, K2 for the decreases (with adding the band every row) or even K2tog, K3, or K2tog, K4. Like I said my first try was just a teeny-tiny bit floppy.
I had a hard time finding a buckle, but then realized with this whole blogging thing I should be looking for people who have made this and see if they mention their sources, since googling buckles wasn't working. So for anyone else who wants to know I got the buckle from Les Bon Ribbon they have some nice cheap ones. I also found that mjtrim has some, but they appeared to be more expensive.
